Classic tailoring meets modern style in Syreeta’s latest SMF collaboration. Using Blue Jay Square Up Denim and Grasser Pattern 530, she transformed a traditional blazer into a sophisticated sleeveless statement piece. With crisp lapels, covered buttons, and beautifully tailored details, this project shows us that denim can look just as polished as suiting. Shop the fabric and notions here.
You’re using another Grasser pattern. What made you choose this one?
I am continually drawn to Grasser patterns because they present as a bit more refined, and my eye often goes to the more tailored alternative when making my selection. Roz helped me source patterns this time and offered several variations, yet here we are with Grasser again! I really wanted a piece that mimicked a “boyfriend-style” double-breasted blazer, so that was the winner.
Were the instructions clear, thorough, and easy to follow?
Well– I feel like it’s important to be honest in these blogs. The first question pointed out *another* Grasser pattern and that’s also with the insight that they’ve given me some trouble in the past. Not the pattern themselves as they’re incredibly well drafted and sew up well, but rather the instructions and sizing. For sizing, I’ve learned to size up for more fitted garments and for the instructions… I’ve learned to bypass them 😅.
Grasser is not a US or English-based manufacturer, so I credit some of my confusion to translation. I don’t find them to be fluid, although I theorize that someone who knows *less* about sewing may fare better with the in depth directions. My brain may be too rooted in preference. Because this pattern was a pretty traditional blazer base and I’m comfortable making them, I didn’t even download the directions. This decision was supported by the fact that I wasn’t crafting a formal blazer. I wanted that look but downgraded to a casual denim alternative. That’s all to say, I wasn’t intending to use as many internal layers (shoulder pads, canvas, etc.).
You chose Blue Jay Square Up Denim. What inspired you to pair it with this pattern?
I own a lot of denim already. So I knew I wanted Square Up in my collection but needed to diversify the style. I sought out a warm weather layer that was both statement & stylish. This combo will offer me a denim jacket alternative.
Any pretreatment for the denim?
Nope! (per usual)
The original design includes sleeves. How did you decide whether the pattern would work well as a sleeveless garment?
My decision was look first, logistics later. I initially searched for a vest of this style but could not find one, so then I opened the search to a blazer. I loved everything in the bodice, including the fit and length (and honestly will keep this pattern to potentially make as a full blazer later). Luckily, the armhole size made the sleeve removal fairly easy, although I likely would not have minded a larger armhole as the piece has an oversized look anyway!
Did you make any other design changes?
I skipped the flaps in the pockets and made the besom itself a bit wider. I felt that the grid offered enough visual interest on the front and did not want flaps to add any more ‘dimension.’ Since I’d always have them tucked inside, I left them out completely. I also ended up with slightly larger buttons.
When laying out the pattern pieces, how did you choose which areas of the patchwork denim would appear on the front, back, collar, and other visible sections?
I was not super thoughtful about where the patches landed but did have a semi-intent to match the grid lines going horizontally around the garment. Funny enough… even though I know better, I forgot to pin my folded fabric so that the blind layer underneath perfectly matched the top layer. So about half my vest is perfectly aligned and the other half is ~⅜” off. In the end, when I took a step back, the pattern is so busy, it’s not noticeable, but it would be a great challenge for those perfectionists out there! You basically would treat the grid like windowpane (think: plaid)!
What needle size and stitch length did you use?
I used a normal 90/14 needle & 2.3ish stitch length. The denim was not especially heavy and sewed up well!
Jackets need structure. What marking technique and interfacing did you use?
I marked the pockets and button placement on the wrong side with tailor’s chalk but would recommend tailor’s tacks for those who need more visibility on both sides. Interfacing was something I toiled with a bit. I wanted structure in my collar & lapel and obviously needed to interface behind pockets, but I didn’t want the vest so crisp or heavy that I couldn’t wear it casually in the summer. I actually sewed & pressed one seam first to see how it behaved before making a final decision. I landed on: interfaced front + side front + facing… interfaced upper collar + stand… non-interfaced back + side back + undercollar + stand. I also had a light weight cotton lining. This combo gave just enough crispness. (I used lightweight non-woven interfacing.)
The lapel is one of the defining features of a jacket. What steps did you take to ensure the lapels rolled smoothly and lay flat against the body?
Firstly, you have to use a good pattern and cut your grainline properly. There’s not much you can do after the fact if those boxes aren’t checked off. From there, it’s important to trim bulk, especially in corners, and understitch. Press. As. You. Go!
What was the most challenging part of sewing the collar and lapels?
For me, it was not paying attention and stitching my collar on upside down. So I had to do it twice. For most, it will be maneuvering the opposing curves and corners. I probably pinned more in the collar than the entire rest of the jacket, so that is where precision pays off. Take your time easing things in and clip curves accordingly.
Pressing plays a huge role in tailoring. What pressing techniques helped you get sharp lapel edges and a collar?
Luckily, denim takes a press well, so that wasn’t challenging. Turning out corners required more attention. There are many tricks out there, and some people use a point turner. I say do what works for you or YouTube a new trick – anything besides jamming scissors or sharps into your corner. This is where interfacing also helps with looser weaves. You can trim your corner closer to get a sharper turn without an immediate fray. Even if you’re not interfacing the entire panel, it may help to do some around the seam allowance or in a corner.
What specific changes did you make to the armhole shape after removing the sleeves? Did you raise, lower, or reshape the armhole in any way?
I didn’t! I actually expected to, but it was a nice fit. (I’m glad I chose a woman’s blazer because I was a second away from looking for menswear if I couldn’t find the style I wanted.)
Did you add any support or stabilization for the armhole?
I considered adding bias interfacing around it but liked the body of it when I tried it on. I don’t usually care for structure in the shoulder, so it’s not a place I crave more. I skipped shoulder pads, as well.
What is the most important advice you would give sewists who want to convert a sleeved blazer pattern into a sleeveless jacket?
Pick a good pattern foundation. Take into account where the armhole/sleeve hits on the shoulder and assess that for where you want your armhole to hit. A lot of oversized blazers have dropped armholes these days, so beware.
What type of hem finish did you choose for this denim jacket?
This pattern features a lining, and it’s finished like a traditional suit jacket.
Did you grade, trim, or reduce seam allowances at the hem?
The seam allowance is trimmed only on the inside of the center front where the facing is.
What machine settings, stabilizers, or techniques worked best when creating buttonholes in the Blue Jay Square Up Denim?
Me, always: “Test your buttonholes!” I skip a lot of steps (if you read these blogs, you know – lol) but I never skip testing my buttonholes. I ended up using the widest buttonhole option on my machine to balance out how large my buttons were (in addition to the matching length).
The covered buttons are a great design detail. What made you choose covered buttons instead of a traditional button for this jacket?
Covered buttons were my way of reducing clutter in an already busy surface pattern. I did not want to color match a single shade of blue or have an additional focal point with a contrast button… so covered buttons were the winner.
How do you plan to style this jacket?
BABYYY – I’m wearing this with everything. Prepare to be sick of me. It’s my new favorite piece!
But for what it’s worth, I can see it over linen shorts or fitted skirts. I have a remnant that I may make into a coord! I also love a Canadian tuxedo, so that will be in the mix. I’ll wear this well into Fall, too, so some pattern-mixing may be in my future.
Did you want to add anything else?
If you’re making a blazer for the first time, I recommend testing besom/welt pockets. They can be VERY tricky. Even if you’re trialing them in muslin or another remnant, it’s better to get comfortable with the process and double check your symmetry, the pocket corners, and your pocket bag. Also grade seam allowances to prevent bulk.
