If you’ve struggled with the neckband on McCall’s 8589, you’re not alone, and there’s an easier way. After Kasey ran into challenges with this pattern, fellow sewist and client Chris generously stepped in to rewrite the neckband instructions in a clearer, more approachable way. Her method simplifies the process and takes the frustration out of finishing this detail. This post walks you through Chris’s tips so you can sew the neckline with better results! Thank you, Chris, for your thoughtfulness in writing this tutorial!
Reinforce shirt front along stitch lines as directed, but DO NOT clip to small dots at this time. Also, add stay-tape to the inside fabric along the collar front:
Construct the collar and neckband as outlined in the pattern instructions (7-11). Turn collar band to INSIDE. Press.
Lap right band over left, matching small dots. Baste together. Then pin to RIGHT side of front matching/aligning marks on front. If aligned, stitch to front.
Before clipping the front to small dots, flip the neckband/collar up to check if it appears even.
If yes, then clip to the small dots being careful not to clip through stitching.
Now carefully pin neckband to right side of neck edges, matching the shoulder seams. Stitch with regular stitch (just in case it is not matched correctly and needs to be redone).
Turn collar and band seam to inside. Press. If all looks as expected, now an edge/serged seam can be added for a more finished seam.
Following this process eliminates the need to try to match and stitch the ends of the neckband after it has been sewn to the fabric. It made the process much easier for me.
And the final product looks great!
I used this technique on several of my husband’s new shirts…all with fabric (cotton/spandex knits) from Sew Much Fabric! Thanks, Roz, for taking such good care of us all these years – you are the best!
