As the summer sewing season winds down, Syreeta has sewn a fabulous two-piece ensemble, with Vogue 1901 and Cream/Tea Rose/Warm Olive/Ocean Blue Abstract Print Viscose Twill (Sold Out). Syreeta’s selection of this large abstract print complements the design elements of the pattern. Continue reading for Syreeta’s modifications and sewing tips! Also, at the end of this post don’t miss the chance to enroll in her new sewing classes!
What initially attracted you to Vogue 1901?
I’ve had my eye on V1901 since we began doing this blog. It aligned with a look that I’d saved to my “Garments I Want to Remake for Myself” Pinterest board! When you suggested I challenge myself to remake a produced design using a pattern, my mind went right back to this pattern!
Why did you select printed rayon twill?
It was pretty!
Also, I previously bookmarked this sewing pattern for later because I did not see a fabric choice that I truly loved to pair it with. Patience paid off because this rayon twill was perfect. I’m a big fan of rayon and knew it would be the weight & drape I desired for this pattern. I wanted something fun that I could dress up or down! (Sold Out)
What techniques did you use to ensure accurate cutting of the fabric pieces?
Rayon can be shifty so I use fabric clamps when cutting on my table. They are large spring-loaded clamps that hold the fabric to the table and keep it from sliding around. I take more time matching my selvage when cutting on the fold and use a ruler to check my grainline.
Did you encounter any specific challenges while working with this pattern?
This pattern cut & sewed up really well — better than most mass patterns I’ve used! I will admit I still ignore directions outside of some pattern specific steps (like for this one it was attaching the top lining) because I flow better using techniques I’m comfortable with. I do suggest “following your intuition” if you have some sewing experience and take on a pattern within your level. This is especially applicable if you’re modifying the pattern.
The only challenge I ran into was a fit issue with the shorts. The crotch length was a little too long for me. I chose to shorten it inside the leg seams. Otherwise, it would be a significant adjustment at the flat pattern level and that wasn’t a worthwhile refinement for me.
How did you ensure the printed pattern on the fabric aligned correctly on both the shorts and the duster?
This was an abstract, non-directional print so I simply cut away!
What modifications, if any, did you make to the original pattern design?
My mods:
1. Lengthening the duster
2. I added ~6″ to the hem to make it floor-length
3. The same amount was added to the lining length
4. Removing the sleeves from the duster
5. I opted for a sleeveless look
6. I added a video to explain how I stitched the narrow strap.
7. Widening the leg opening of the shorts by approx. 1.5″
8. Adding a lining to the shorts
Can you share any tips for working with the lightweight, slippery nature of rayon twill?
Pin! A lot. While cutting and sewing. Lightweight fabrics may also be interfaced for stability if pattern instructions suggest.
What steps did you take to finish the edges and prevent fraying?
I always serge. Even though I lined both pieces, I serged any seams that were open. (e.g. the bodice of the duster is closed at the underbust seam so those seams are not serged. The skirt is hemmed separate from the lining so the skirt seams are serged.
How did you handle the construction of the waistband and closures on the shorts?
This was actually pretty easy. It’s a side zipper and foldover 1-piece waistband. Much more easygoing than a fly front or multi-piece band. There are also belt loops and those were straightforward as well.
What was your method for creating the clean, professional finish on the maxi-length duster?
Understitch around necklines, armholes, and the front opening. Let your duster skirt hang for a day or so and even out your hem. Some of the sections are cut through the fabric bias which often creates an uneven hem, especially in drapey fabrics. Trimming is an important step if this happens to accomplish a clean hem. Use an iron to crisp your finishes — rayon will press well, just be sure to use the proper setting.
Did you add any personal touches or embellishments to the design?
SMF has a great button selection and I dipped back into it. The pretty blue & gold shank design was the perfect detail to set off the print. Nothing more was necessary!
How did you ensure a good fit for both the shorts and the duster?
First, I referred to the *finished garment measurements* when selecting my size. I did not want the bodice or shorts to have much ease. The measurements often differ from what’s on the outside of the pattern envelope so I recommend always checking it before finalizing your size choice. Like most, my size zig zags across measurements so I made the appropriate selections. I graded my shorts pattern upfront this time. For the top, I took it in at the underbust after a fitting based on what felt comfortable.
What tools did you find most helpful during this project?
Pins! (Again with the pins. But seriously… as a notoriously sparse pinner… use pins.)
Would you rate this pattern as beginner-friendly or more advanced?
I think this pattern can be beginner-friendly if using a more structured fabric. Err for something that sews easily and isn’t too stretchy, slippery, or sheer. This will make it more straightforward. There are not a lot of crazy curves and most time will likely be spent with pattern layout and cutting. It’s a good opportunity to learn/practice a zipper and pockets.
Can you describe any special pressing or ironing techniques you used to achieve a polished look?
Rayon responds well to pressing. Your seams and hems will flatten with ease. The only special thing is taking your time, especially if you’re ironing volume. If your fabric is delicate, be sure to be attentive to heat settings and/or use a press cloth.
How will you style the finished shorts and duster for different occasions?
I LOVE a set. They’ll be worn together but also separately. I can imagine myself styling the duster with other pants or casually with jeans. The shorts can be paired with anything from a tee & sneakers to an oversized button-up & heels.
Do you have any additional advice for other sewists who are interested in working with Vogue pattern 1901 and printed rayon twill fabric?
Have fun with prints! Rayon comes in great prints and the float of this pattern is perfect for a dynamic style. I popped out of my comfort zone with this color palette (although I love abstract prints) and I do NOT regret it!
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