Invisible Zipper TutorialThe invisible zipper can add an elegant, subtle look to a garment. There is no topstitching on the garment so it gives the appearance of a seam. It is my favorite zipper to use.
…and after the coils are pressed.
Cut two 1 inch wide strips of interfacing the length of the zipper plus 2 inches. I like to use Fusi-knit. Cut the strips with the stretch going crosswise.
Press the interfacing strips to the wrong side of the fabric at the zipper opening. If you have a crosswise seam, press the seam open.
One of the most confusing things about invisible zippers is remembering which way the zipper is inserted into the fabric. To solve this problem, finger press the seam allowance to the inside of the garment. Place the zipper between the two pattern pieces with the zipper pull facing you. Use four pins with colored heads and select two colors. Pick one color for the left and one for the right. Put one pin in the zipper tape and one in the fabric. This will remind you which side the zipper goes in.
Using our color coded method above, place the zipper face down with the coils facing away from the seam allowance. I use my standard zipper foot, and place the needle close to the coilsand stitch as far as I can.