Pattern Review for McCalls 5244 & 9170


(out of print)

100% Merino Wool Knit

This is a knit fabric with very little stretch. I would describe it as similar to a stretch woven.

Prewash: Dry Clean

Notions: universal needle size 10, thread, Fusi-knit interfacing, stay tape, 1/4″ foot
for jacket-size 4 snaps and rayon lining
for top-22″ invisible zipper cut down to 19″

I’ll review the jacket first then the dress-turned-into a top.

Alterations: I cut a size 10 for the back and a 12 for the front and did my usual FBA.

Construction Details: This is an easy jacket to put together. I followed the instructions with only a few changes.
1. I applied stay tape around neck edge.
2. The sleeves were just long enough so I had to face them.
3. I didn’t do a buttonhole-I used a decorative pin instead.
4. Topstitched 1/4″ around the edges.
5. Interfaced the hem
6. Bagged the lining


Alterations: Because this knit doesn’t have a lot of stretch I needed a pattern for non-stretch fabric. I selected the dress from McCalls 9170 because it has a lot of shaping in the form of vertical and horizontal darts. I did my normal FBA.
The center back seam is also shaped to give a non-stretch fabric the fit of a stretchy knit. The finished center back length for the top is 20-1/2″.
Construction Details: I used stay tape at the neck and armholes and a 1″ strip of Fusi-Knit to stabilize the seam for the zipper.

I substituted bias strips for the facings.

Conclusion: This is a great trendy jacket that I won’t make again but the top is a keeper. The skirt is BWOF 11/08 #110 reviewed previously.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *